How to Bottle a Feeling

Five reasons why New York is BACK Baby! And of course, five things I wore this Fashion Week.

Sep 11, 2024

Surprise! A special Wednesday edition of 5 Things as we close out New York Fashion Week. Don’t worry, I’ll still see you Sunday where we dive into the terrifying world of oversized blazers. But let’s get to it.

I wish I could bottle the feeling you get after seeing a truly special fashion show. Like all your clothes are wrong, but not in a bad way - in a way that reassures you that new ideas are still possible in the insanity of our over-connected-over-referenced-over-googled world. (I’m not alone in this feeling, I see. Rachel puts it way better than I ever could!) The intensity of the right music, the right attitude, casting and most importantly, the new, great ideas that change what you thought you knew creativity and beauty to be, in an instant. I’m referring to last week’s Alaia show at the Guggenheim, of course. Which we will get into.

pieter_mulier

A post shared by @pieter_mulier

Fashion Week just wrapped in New York City and the city felt alive in a way it has not in fashion weeks of recent memory. So while I do not usually do a recap of individual fashion week cities (don’t worry we will still do a trend report after Paris in October!) I am feeling an itch to process it. Today, a special little bonus Five Things, to talk about the seeds that will grow into the collections we will want to buy next Spring.

Alaia showed us why fashion shows matter

There were less shows than ever in New York this past week, but the ones that hit, really hit. It seems like brands are finally thinking about what makes the most sense for them and fighting the urge to “do a show because everyone is doing a show.”

And no show was more powerful than Pieter Mulier’s Alaia. Mulier, who took over the house four years after Mr. Alaia’s death, paid homage to the designer’s love of New York, American fashion and the sculptural nature of the clothing codes of the “maison”. It was executed so perfectly that I can confidently say almost everyone left with a desire to throw out their closets, in the best way possible. The girls walked the entire spiral of the Guggenheim’s rotunda, into an impossibly cool crowd (think 1990s Supers, museum curators and of course…Rihanna) waiting with baited breath. The girls were confident, their jersey layers bouncing and flitting as they walked.

Look past the “runway-ness” of these clothes. The draped chain skirt over a t-shirt would be fantastique! Or the mesh pants with bikers underneath?! Ok! All of these pieces feel completely new and slightly strange, but in a way that challenges us to actually wear them!

Clothing aside, this show is a textbook case of why shows still matter. To capture the spirit of a brand, and convey a message without words, which is exactly what we want our clothes to do when we walk into a room. A great show ignites a spark that will keep burning until a collection crawls into stores months later. To give the clothes context and imbue them with emotion. Because at this point, we all have enough clothes. It’s the emotion connected to the pieces when we put them on that drives a sale at these prices.

The next it-bag!? The frame is curved - both a nod to Alaia’s sculptural roots and as to sit comfortably across the body.

The little slivers of color felt very New York and easy to do on our own. The flouncy skirts in multiple different colors and materials were knockouts.

I keep coming back to this skirt connected over the shoulder with a delicate chain. I want to wear her over a ribbed tank! It seems like *a lot* but is actually so simple.

And the clothes! They were delicious. The flounce of the mini skirts! The super soft knit chainmail! The bag that is sure to be a hit with a curved frame to easily lay across the body. The spliced netting that felt somehow…wearable!? It felt straightforward in a way that did not feel simple (which gave me an idea for another newsletter…we are going to test this idea in a couple weeks!) It was a moment in time and proof that new ideas are still possible, if we could just stop convincing ourselves they aren’t.

Someone at J.Crew is doing something right

As anyone who has worked at a big company knows, the bigger the brand (or company, or organization or whatever) the harder it is to align the stars. Departments become siloed and priorities vary, which makes making an impact bizarrely harder, the more successful you become. This is not just in fashion, but something I think happens across all industries. So of all the big big big box American retailers trying to make a splash right now, J.Crew deserves major props. The “relaunch” of the catalog at the start of NYFW was executed beautifully. I saw it everywhere and couldn’t get enough. The men’s and the women’s categories felt like they worked together, the photography was fantastic (Yes to Theo Wenner!) and the culmination of an exibition and “intimate” party for 500 (I don’t know how many people were actually there) at the New York Public Library was actually very fun! (Thanks for inviting me!!) So whoever got everyone at J.Crew to focus on a shared goal and put the $$$ and talent behind a singular idea deserves a raise. (If you ask me, and no one did. :)) It also…wasn’t really about the clothes. And I think that is OK! Maybe we will get into this another time, but we are running out of word count here and lots to get through.

Nothing I love more than a decadent, gorgeous table! J.Crew creating a classic supper club feel at the New York Public Library. I also appreciated the donation note with our place cards, given the state of the DOE’s stance on books in schools, Sighhhhhh. Photo by Sinna Nasseri

Gritty, city energy reigned

As I came up in this industry, fashion week went from being a small spectacle in Bryant Park to being a massive circus with multimillion dollar sponsored venues, reality shows and hundreds of shows from brands that probably had no business or budget having one. This week felt somewhat like a reset. Like everyone is now comfortable doing their own thing, whatever that may be, but thinking about what works best for their brand first. (Maybe this is me projecting?) The energy felt best around brands cleverly tying their ideas back to the city itself. I went to Batsheva’s presentation at her store in Nolita where we all stood blocking Elizabeth Street while the models held a rogue fashion show to the music of a single, live violinist. It was so fun. Eckhaus Latta held a very downtown dinner for loyal industry fans hosted by Kate Berlant (if you don’t listen to Poog, might I recommend throwing it on while you finish the dishes, get the house cleaned up before bed? You are welcome!) where the guests became the models. Tommy Hilfiger hosted a show on Colin Jost and Pete Davidson’s Staten Island Ferry. Proenza Schouler showed in a sunny, raw Tribeca loft that felt perfectly aligned with who their “girl” is. And Toteme showed on a very high, very vacant floor at the iconic 9W57 with views overlooking Central Park and the Empire State Building. They all felt like NEW YORK MINUTES.

Tommy Hilfiger on the Staten Island Ferry

A rogue fashion show for Batsheva on Elizabeth Street

Tory was weird and that’s a good thing

There were a few shows I attended this week that reminded me of my first few seasons of fashion. My first thought was, wow am I that old? That these shapes that I craved as an assistant at Lucky in 2008 are what’s next? I mean, yes, I am. But you know what designer (who has been around this long) didn’t send me into a sad, nostalgic spiral? Tory Burch!! The clothes were a little weird. And as I said to friend of Five Things Nicole P. yesterday when discussing the show, I’d rather weird than more of the same! And while the show had some incredibly unique ideas that will be impossible for us 5’5” folk, there were also interesting pieces that will be easy to add into a wardrobe. I want the stiff flame jacquard fabric in super ladylike silhouettes right now. Hot Topic goes to breakfast at Sant Ambroeus!? Yes. And the super tight jersey button downs in interesting block patterns will actually be so fantastic looking with jeans. The beaded fringe bags are perfect fodder for an LBD and the patent ballerina flats with a peep toe are a cheeky little no brainer.

We are all going to want a long flouncy skirt next summer

The trends don’t usually percolate until closer to the end of Paris, but if there is one thing I know for sure after this week, it’s that we’re all going to want a bouncy flouncy flowy dreamy skirt next summer. I rest my case in photos.