In my best 1990s “Armani suit”. Kallmeyer jacket, Toteme cropped pants (yes the same pair I’ve been telling you to get for six mo.) and boots. This is my new favorite outfit. I can’t wait to wear her on all my work travel this next month. I’m dressy. I’m comfortable. I blend in, but not in a boring way. the dream! *Note on the Kallmeyer jacket: the first run sold out! But I asked very nicely and she said she will recut it if interested, so the page reads preorder, and she will make for you if you are interested!
I’m having a chicken and egg moment with single breasted jackets. Not blazers, not coats but simple, clean-lined jackets with one set of buttons down the front. Not “Chanel” jackets. Not shackets. Are you getting what I mean? And I can’t figure out which I was drawn to first: the jacket shape itself or the vintage Armani vibes that seem to be proliferating in fashion at the moment, from which the silhouette seems to stem. Today, we are styling this perfect specimen for our mid-winter slump. We are getting DRESSED!
I can’t help but associate this jacket shape with Armani, even though nothing in this letter today is Armani! The brand has been loyal to this style for at least for at least 35 years from what I can tell. Master of the evening jacket and black tie suit, they’re nothing if not consistent. In his memoir Per Amore, he says he has “always been unwilling to embrace exhibitionism”, gravitating toward shades of grey in the bonkers, neon-infused 80s. He was considered a revolutionary in the 1980s and 90s, and while he hasn’t been considered much of a risk taker since (a lesson in do what you know and do it well!), we know that it allllll comes back around. Some of those early shapes are now so deeply associated with the brand that I can name a newsletter after him with nothing Armani in it and you get what I mean!
But about the nowness of it all. I can’t help but be drawn to the uncluttered feeling I get looking at the current communal mood board (aka Instagram) flooded with 90s minimalism: simple pairings, the CBK/Gwyneth/Winona/Cindy/Cameron crew, leather blazers, ill-fitting jeans, turtlenecks, power boots, pre-sweatsuit-era airport shots. But even simple shapes can look costume-y if executed as a direct copy. While I love the imagery, I don’t actually want to look like a sheep. So I’m considering my “Armani” jackets to be my 90s “trend” item and making them feel uniquely today and uniquely mine.
Calendar strikes Feb. 1, and I start dressing for the eternal promise of spring? LOL. But really, I do look forward to wearing this on a 50-60 degree day. The Kallmeyer jacket (which if you really have spring on the brain, also comes in linen!) with a silk, stripey shirt. Mine is Loro Piana from TRR but this one looks great. Vince skirt (more on this skirt in two weeks), Khaite loafers. On sale here if you’re a 39/40!
There are two variations of this jacket on the table today. A long narrow one and a slightly cropped (not actually cropped but like, hitting at the top of your hips) version. They are both collarless, single breasted and very clean in their design. I prefer the longer for evenings, pairing it with jeans and slim skirts, in uber-90s fashion. With the shorter jacket, I lean into volume and slouchy pleat front pants (is there anything more Armani than that!?) The point is, both styles do the trick, can be styled interchangeably and you may find one more flattering than the other so showing you OPTIONS! Plus, you may already have one of them in your closet!
I rest my case. Giorgio Armani FW2013. This could have been last year. Or 1991. AMIRIGHT!? Glorious.
Doing my best to recreate the look above. Am I Italian yet? Comme des Garcons jacket (hereare afew, and thesetwo are also awesome), The Row pants, these look gorgeous though, and these from Cos!, and ODP Mary Janes.
Same, same. But with a coat…to prove my point about this jacket being a great winter layer (if you happen to read more than just the captions. :) ) Here’s a beautiful houndstooth balmacaan if you’re in the market for this style. The Officine Generale one I’m wearing is sold out sadly.
Happy Valentine’s Day! Not that I would DARE eat out on Valentine’s Day, but like, I love the balance of the super frilly shoes with the rigidity of this look. A real winter cocktail party solution. I will probably add sheer stockings when I wear her outside. Kallmeyer jacket, vintage Prada pants, Larroude sandals and Dorsey riviere.
I love this for a party, but pretty sure the Conde Nasties wore this for a regular day at the office in 1997…in the dead of winter. The jacket with a Vince skirt that reminds me of something I had from Express in middle school. :) Tom Ford sandals.
Your Instagram feed reincarnate. And not going to lie, they’re onto something. I’m very comfortable in this! Kallmeyer jacket and pants (but also, these Cos pants!), Skall Studio merino base layer, Khaite loafers
Armani break! Just me and T strolling in the Place de la Concorde. :)
How I actually plan to wear it in Milan and Paris at the end of Feb. I feel like this would transition so seamlessly from day to night, and all extremely easy (read: small) to pack. I am so warm and cozy (fleece lined tights) and comfortable. But I look so sharp. Sportmax skirt (but also this mini or this if you wanted something a little longer, or just your standard black mini will do the trick!), Khaite boots
My go-to outfit for the past two months. With light jeans and a black shoe (either a Mary Jane or heeled boot) for leaving the house after 6pm. With just a simple t-shirt underneath and some artsy earrings, it toes the line between “I tried” and “oh this thing I happened to throw on” perfectly.
And the prissy version…because lets face it, we’re all a little prissy sometimes. With a tan silk shirt underneath and slingbacks. Mine are both Miu Miu. Jeans are 501s.
So far, I’ve mostly paired these jackets with subdued styling pieces, making her stand out, in a minimal sort of way. But she’s such a great piece because she can ALSO tone down your more fun closet tokens. I’ve been struggling to figure out how to wear this La Veste tulle skirt that I HAD TO HAVE in December and I think this jacket, leggings and a big chunky boot make it somehow work for me. Are you all as shocked as I am that I bought this? But look! It’s working!
And to recover from the green tutu, a still fun but much more grown up skirt pairing. Still love this Jil Sander skirt we bought last winter. Here’s another pretty off white Jil option from the Outnet if you didn’t scoop this one up. And your carryon suitcase’s favorite Khaite sock boots.
Not me. But not NOT me!
And now, five great new jackets and five vintage Armanis!
5 Black Armani-ish Jackets
From left: Reformation in linen. I wiould probably remove those shoulder pads, but try it first. Toteme, a slightly looser fitting version. Khaite, technically this one is pinstripes but still very cool, Tove, look at that pretty top button, v. Armani! Acne, this one has a tiny little collar but the shape and legnth are perfect.
And if you’re still reading, the outfit I really wanted to create was this jacket was a slouchy brown trouser suit (not khaki, but light brown!) But I don’t have any, so you’ll just have to imagine this outfit. I didn’t have time to source the full look by this morning…when I finally thought of it. But here and here are some great versions to try!
And on that note, have a great rest of your weekend, and week ahead.
Yours TRULY,
Me and Julia and her Armani suit
5 Things You Should Buy is a reader-supported publication. If you love it here, please consider upgrading to paid. It’s $5. Less than a box of girl scout cookies (which you should also buy, but I did hear prices are going up!)
NOTE: I use affiliate links when applicable which means I may get a small commission from things you buy (no cost to you!) Thank you for supporting my work and trusting me with your shopping!
I should have said! My Kallmeyer jacket is a size 2. It's slightly large in the shoulders (but I have narrow shoulders) but fits perfectly in the body. I wouldn't size up. :)
I thought you saw my TRR obsessions list! I've been watching all those Armani jackets for the past 5 months and finally I bought 2, after reading your post this morning. This is the reason I've been your fan since WSJ days!
I should have said! My Kallmeyer jacket is a size 2. It's slightly large in the shoulders (but I have narrow shoulders) but fits perfectly in the body. I wouldn't size up. :)
I thought you saw my TRR obsessions list! I've been watching all those Armani jackets for the past 5 months and finally I bought 2, after reading your post this morning. This is the reason I've been your fan since WSJ days!