What do we want? Peacoats!

When do we want them? Right now!

It’s been fun chanting that to myself in (in Troop Beverly Hills tune) the past couple weeks while prepping this newsletter.

A simple newsletter this weekend dedicated to the peacoat’s ten millionth time back in the spotlight. The eternal style staple is new (again!).

It all started to feel fresh a couple of seasons ago (fall 2022 to be exact) at Matthieu Blazy’s first collection for Bottega Veneta. He sent what appeared to be classic (albeit slightly oversized) peacoats down the runway. But as they walked past, you saw their magic unfold in profile view. Their curvy arms and bulbous back shape provided the wow. Then there is the giant Alaia version from that same season. Both continue to wow and are still easy to find online.

Bottega Veneta Fall 2022. It’s now a classic and still available should you be so inclined. Fun to even look at since you might fall off your chair at the price.

Alaia Fall 2022. Also now a classic piece for the brand (and thankfully available in a shorter, more throw on and go length as well.)

The shorter Alaia version, for scale. How do you say DREAM COAT in French?

Peacoats were re-solidified for me during the fall 2023 collections this past March at Miu Miu and Tory Burch (two of my guiding light brands!). Both showed variations on the theme. It had me calling my mom and asking her to check all the hall closets for my +J Uniqlo peacoat I keep in “second storage” because I could never dream of parting with it (sorry mom!)

But my Uniqlo +J peacoat is fitted, and while I am not going to give it up, it still doesn’t feel quite of the moment. So today, my quest for this fall’s perfect Pea.

Miu Miu Fall 2023 somehow made running errands the most covatable look of the season!?

Tory Burch FW23 peacoat with a ripped jean skirt and fishnets!!!!

Coats are veering oversized now - bigger, longer, fuller. If you have narrow shoulders (like me) or if you are not 5’11” (most of us) this can be tricky. Don’t get me wrong, I still loooooove all forms of outerwear, but the peacoat is a fun shape to experiment with all of these bigger proportions. It’s generally shorter so has more room for proportion play on a variety of body types.

It’s my choice of jacket for the change in season because I don’t need full frigid leg coverage yet and I like a shorter jacket for general running around. Importantly, and put so well by Miu Miu and Tory, it spiffs up your standard (or not so standard) basics like leggings and denim in a way that looks very un-sloppy. I wouldn’t exactly call it quiet luxury, but it definitely nods to a certain old-school (and prep school) style of getting DRESSED. Very much a mindset of style over fashion.

A YSL Peacoat from 1962 from the YSL Museum archives in Paris. Look at this silhouette! A man ahead of his time (as if I’m the first person to tell you this!)

Because of these associations, the style can veer extremely uptown. It’s the new play on proportions that take this style off the nose. Is that a term? Like opposite of ‘on the nose’? I am not sure, but it works. Anyway, one idea is to buy the men’s version from J.Crew (or Todd Snyder which is gorgeous but double the price) to give your shoulders a bit of width. Or if you do want a trimmer look, swap out the classic anchor buttons for these gold bulbs from Etsy for a little dressy detail on your classic pea you have buried in your closet already. Your neighborhood tailor can do this in a cinch.

Here is the J.Crew men’s peacoat in a size small. It literally got delivered as I was walking out the door to the airport so quickly threw it on to show you before I closed my suitcase. The fabric is what you would expect for the price, but it does have a Primaloft lining for warmth which was a pleasant surprise and the shape feels spot on! Glad I got to include it here to show you. An upgrade to this would be the Todd Snyder navy peacoat. But we are working with all of your budgets here! :) Levi’s 501 90s. Vans.

J.Crew men’s peacoat

Very into the more is more faux fur detail on Tory’s version below. It helps this style transition to evening should you want to wear this guy out after dark (I always find navy to be a tricky color at night, don’t you?) And the faux fur collar is removable for weathery days or just a more casual vibe.

Tory Burch peacoat. Kallmeyer sporty suiting trousers. New Blanace sneakers.

Side view of the Tory. See how straight and A-lined this falls? Nothing pulling or too close to the body. Also paired with a recent sale find…This skirt seems like it would be a dime a dozen no? But something about the weight, shape and black and red checks on cream make this a very specific kind of good.

Here is the full Miu Miu look above (but with my own classic New Balances :) ) Truly beautiful and a serious statement. This fabric is ultra stiff, which creates a cool look but might be hard to get in and out of the car in…for those on the school pick up circuit. More of the ultimate fashion piece. Fun to see IRL though, NO?! What do you think, do I need Miu Miu leggings? LOL!

Here is the same Miu Miu coat with my regular everyday garb. I guess I don’t need Miu Miu leggings huh? :) Organic John Patrick sweater, Citizens of Humanity jeans, Tod’s loafers.

The Five:

I hate to pick favorites, but she might be my favorite? This one gives me the slightly longer legnth of the Alaia/Bottega, the oversized collar, a little back detail, double pockets. I still might size up one size if you really want a FASHION look, but for the price, I think she is the winner.

The shape and scale of this Harris Warf London coat is speaking to me. I think you could layer well underneath her. But might I suggest swapping out these buttons for the brass domes from Etsy just below?

Etsy brass dome buttons. Get the largest size! (Or maybe second to largest? Hard to decide.)

How great is this Maje coat? I love the length, general constrcution and bright navy color.

Japanese brand Sacai often shows some sort of mind boggling deconstructed riff on a uniform coat. This pea with a quilted liner could never be confused with Uniqlo layering. (Not that I am against uniqlo layering, because I do it, but this is so next level!)

Last but not least, the Tory Burch coat I showed you above. Every detail of this coat’s design is thoughtful. And the fabric fantastic!

Back to fashion week now to bring you a full report of what we’ll want next spring. Bon Voyage!

Yours TRULY,

Becky

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