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What do we want? Peacoats!
When do we want them? Right now!
It’s been fun chanting that to myself in (in Troop Beverly Hills tune) the past couple weeks while prepping this newsletter.
A simple newsletter this weekend dedicated to the peacoat’s ten millionth time back in the spotlight. The eternal style staple is new (again!).
It all started to feel fresh a couple of seasons ago (fall 2022 to be exact) at Matthieu Blazy’s first collection for Bottega Veneta. He sent what appeared to be classic (albeit slightly oversized) peacoats down the runway. But as they walked past, you saw their magic unfold in profile view. Their curvy arms and bulbous back shape provided the wow. Then there is the giant Alaia version from that same season. Both continue to wow and are still easy to find online.
Peacoats were re-solidified for me during the fall 2023 collections this past March at Miu Miu and Tory Burch (two of my guiding light brands!). Both showed variations on the theme. It had me calling my mom and asking her to check all the hall closets for my +J Uniqlo peacoat I keep in “second storage” because I could never dream of parting with it (sorry mom!)
But my Uniqlo +J peacoat is fitted, and while I am not going to give it up, it still doesn’t feel quite of the moment. So today, my quest for this fall’s perfect Pea.
Coats are veering oversized now - bigger, longer, fuller. If you have narrow shoulders (like me) or if you are not 5’11” (most of us) this can be tricky. Don’t get me wrong, I still loooooove all forms of outerwear, but the peacoat is a fun shape to experiment with all of these bigger proportions. It’s generally shorter so has more room for proportion play on a variety of body types.
It’s my choice of jacket for the change in season because I don’t need full frigid leg coverage yet and I like a shorter jacket for general running around. Importantly, and put so well by Miu Miu and Tory, it spiffs up your standard (or not so standard) basics like leggings and denim in a way that looks very un-sloppy. I wouldn’t exactly call it quiet luxury, but it definitely nods to a certain old-school (and prep school) style of getting DRESSED. Very much a mindset of style over fashion.
Because of these associations, the style can veer extremely uptown. It’s the new play on proportions that take this style off the nose. Is that a term? Like opposite of ‘on the nose’? I am not sure, but it works. Anyway, one idea is to buy the men’s version from J.Crew (or Todd Snyder which is gorgeous but double the price) to give your shoulders a bit of width. Or if you do want a trimmer look, swap out the classic anchor buttons for these gold bulbs from Etsy for a little dressy detail on your classic pea you have buried in your closet already. Your neighborhood tailor can do this in a cinch.
Very into the more is more faux fur detail on Tory’s version below. It helps this style transition to evening should you want to wear this guy out after dark (I always find navy to be a tricky color at night, don’t you?) And the faux fur collar is removable for weathery days or just a more casual vibe.
Back to fashion week now to bring you a full report of what we’ll want next spring. Bon Voyage!
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